What Is Licorice Root Extract? Benefits, Uses, and Formulation Tips

Licorice root extract is a versatile botanical ingredient used in face creams, body lotions, serums, cleansers, masks, and other cosmetic formulations. It is especially popular in products created to support calm, radiant-looking, and more even-looking skin.

However, not every licorice extract is identical. Its performance in a formula depends on the licorice species, plant part, extraction method, carrier, concentration, and recommended usage level. Understanding the type of extract you are purchasing is therefore essential before adding it to a skincare formulation.

In this guide, we explain what licorice root extract is, its cosmetic benefits, how formulators use it, and what to consider when incorporating it into a finished product.

What Is Licorice Root Extract?

Licorice root extract is obtained from the roots of plants in the Glycyrrhiza genus. One commonly used species is Glycyrrhiza glabra, a member of the legume family.

Licorice root naturally contains numerous phytochemicals, including flavonoids, isoflavonoids, chalcones, saponins, and other botanical compounds. Frequently studied constituents include glabridin, glycyrrhizin, liquiritigenin, isoliquiritigenin, and licochalcones. Research reviews have associated different licorice constituents with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity, although the composition and activity of a finished extract depend heavily on how it was produced.

Licorice extracts are available in several forms, such as:

• Water-based extracts
• Glycerin-based extracts
• Propylene glycol extracts
• Hydroalcoholic extracts
• Oil-soluble extracts
• Dry powders
• Standardized extracts containing specified botanical markers

These versions are not automatically interchangeable. A water-soluble licorice extract may behave differently from a powder or oil-soluble extract, so formulators should always check the supplier’s specifications before use.

Why Is Licorice Root Extract Used in Skincare?

Licorice root extract is valued because it can support several cosmetic goals within one formulation. It is commonly selected for products designed for dull-looking, uneven-looking, stressed, or delicate-feeling skin.

1. Supports a Brighter-Looking Complexion

Licorice root extract is frequently used in glow-focused skincare designed to improve the visible appearance of dullness and uneven-looking tone.

Glabridin, one of the best-known compounds associated with Glycyrrhiza glabra root, has been studied for its interaction with pathways involved in visible pigmentation. Much of the mechanistic evidence comes from laboratory and animal research rather than large human cosmetic trials, so it is more appropriate to describe licorice extract as supporting a brighter-looking or more even-looking appearance rather than promising a medical or permanent result.

2. Provides Antioxidant Support

Environmental exposure can contribute to oxidative stress on the skin. Botanical antioxidants are often added to cosmetic formulations to help support the appearance and condition of skin exposed to everyday environmental factors.

Licorice contains several phytochemicals that have demonstrated antioxidant activity in scientific research. Glabridin, in particular, has been widely studied for its relationship with reactive oxygen species and antioxidant mechanisms.

Licorice root extract may therefore complement other antioxidant-focused ingredients in cosmetic formulations, depending on the extract’s composition and concentration.

3. Supports Calm, Comfortable-Looking Skin

Licorice root extract is also popular in products designed for skin that appears stressed, dry, or easily irritated.

Different licorice constituents have demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity in laboratory and topical research. A small clinical study of licorice gel also reported improvements in several visible and sensory signs associated with atopic dermatitis, although such therapeutic findings should not be used to claim that an ordinary cosmetic ingredient treats a medical condition.

In cosmetic language, licorice root extract may be described as helping support a soothed, calm, and comfortable-looking complexion.

4. Complements Uneven-Tone Formulations

Licorice root extract is commonly combined with other cosmetic ingredients used in products for the appearance of uneven tone. Depending on formula compatibility, these may include:

• Niacinamide
• Vitamin C derivatives
• Alpha arbutin
• Bearberry extract
• Mulberry extract
• Green tea extract
• Turmeric extract
• Gotu kola extract
• Panthenol
• Allantoin

Using more ingredients is not always better. Every combination must be evaluated for solubility, pH, stability, preservation, skin tolerance, and overall formulation performance.

Who Commonly Uses Licorice Root Extract?

Licorice root extract may be used by:

• Professional cosmetic formulators
• Independent skincare brands
• Handmade skincare businesses
• DIY formulators
• Product-development laboratories
• Manufacturers creating botanical personal-care products

It can be incorporated into products for a wide range of skin types, but the suitability of the finished product depends on the complete formula—not one ingredient alone.

Sensitive or reactive skin can respond to botanical ingredients unpredictably. A properly preserved and well-designed formula should still be patch-tested before broad use.

What Products Can Be Made with Licorice Root Extract?

Depending on the extract type and supplier recommendations, licorice root extract may be suitable for:

• Facial serums
• Face creams
• Body lotions
• Gel creams
• Facial essences
• Toners
• Cosmetic paste cleansers
• Liquid cleansers
• Facial masks
• Body creams
• Hand and foot products
• Targeted cosmetic treatments
• After-sun cosmetic products
• Scalp and hair-care formulations

The product format alone does not confirm compatibility. Always determine whether the specific licorice extract is suitable for the water phase, oil phase, or cool-down phase of the formulation.

How to Use Licorice Root Extract in Cosmetic Formulations

The correct method depends on the physical form and carrier of the extract.

Agape Sale LLC’s Licorice Root Extract (PG) is a propylene glycol botanical extract made without added water or glycerin. It is intended for external cosmetic formulation use.

Recommended Addition Method

For a propylene glycol extract:

1. Weigh the extract accurately according to the batch size and intended usage level.
2. Add it to the appropriate phase of the formulation.
3. In emulsions or other heated products, it is generally preferable to incorporate botanical extracts during the cool-down phase unless the product specifications state otherwise.
4. Mix thoroughly until the extract is evenly distributed.
5. Evaluate the finished product for appearance, odor, texture, pH, stability, and preservation.
6. Record the exact percentage and processing method in the batch documentation.

Avoid exposing botanical extracts to unnecessary high heat for extended periods. Heat sensitivity varies among botanical compounds, and prolonged processing may affect color, odor, or performance.

How Much Should Be Used?

There is no universal usage percentage for every licorice root extract.

The correct amount depends on:

• The extract’s concentration
• Extraction ratio
• Carrier system
• Solubility
• Supplier directions
• Type of finished product
• Other active ingredients
• Intended cosmetic positioning
• Applicable regulatory requirements

Follow the usage range listed on the specific Agape Sale LLC product page or supporting documentation. Do not copy the usage percentage of an unrelated powder, oil-soluble extract, standardized active, or water-based extract.

More extract does not necessarily produce a better formula. Excessive use may contribute to instability, discoloration, odor changes, tackiness, irritation, or an undesirable skin feel.

Solubility and Compatibility

The word “licorice extract” does not identify its solubility. Formulators must check both the botanical material and its carrier.

For example, glabridin has poor water solubility, which has created formulation challenges in topical research. This is one reason an extract’s carrier and manufacturing method matter. A propylene glycol extract should not be assumed to contain the same constituents, at the same concentrations, as a standardized glabridin ingredient or an oil-soluble licorice extract.

Before scaling up a formulation, conduct a small laboratory batch and observe:

• Clarity or cloudiness
• Sedimentation
• Separation
• Color change
• Odor development
• Viscosity change
• pH drift
• Interaction with thickeners
• Interaction with surfactants
• Interaction with the preservation system

Solubility at the time of mixing does not guarantee long-term stability.

Does Licorice Root Extract Change a Product’s Color?

It can.

Botanical extracts may naturally range from pale yellow or amber to brown, depending on the raw material, extraction process, concentration, age, and storage conditions.

Adding licorice root extract may alter the color of a clear gel, white cream, pale lotion, or transparent serum. This does not automatically mean that the extract is defective.

Natural botanical ingredients can also show reasonable differences in:

• Color
• Scent
• Clarity
• Sediment
• Viscosity
• Appearance between batches

For commercial products, assess the effect of the extract on the finished formula before approving final packaging, photography, or color standards.

Formulation and Preservation Considerations

Licorice root extract is not a complete preservative system.

Even when an extract itself contains little or no water, adding it to a water-containing cream, lotion, serum, toner, or cleanser does not protect the finished product from microbial contamination.

The finished formulation requires an appropriate broad-spectrum preservation strategy based on:

• Water activity
• Formula pH
• Packaging
• Manufacturing conditions
• Intended shelf life
• Expected consumer use
• Ingredient compatibility
• Applicable challenge-testing results

Commercial formulators should perform stability testing, compatibility testing, and preservative efficacy or challenge testing on the complete finished formulation.

Storage Guidance

Store licorice root extract:

• Tightly closed
• In a clean, dry location
• Away from direct sunlight
• Away from unnecessary heat
• Protected from moisture and contamination
• In packaging compatible with the extract

Use clean, dry, sanitized tools when dispensing the product. Do not return unused material to the original container after it has been weighed or exposed during production.

Always follow the storage directions and best-before information supplied with the specific product.

Safety and Precautions

Licorice root extract should be used only as directed and within a properly designed cosmetic formulation.

Recommended precautions include:

• For external cosmetic use only
• Do not ingest
• Avoid direct contact with the eyes
• Keep out of reach of children
• Patch-test the finished formulation
• Stop use if irritation occurs
• Review applicable safety and technical documentation
• Use appropriate protective and sanitary procedures during formulation

A natural origin does not guarantee that an ingredient will be suitable for every person or every formulation.

Anyone creating products for sale is responsible for finished-product safety, labeling, ingredient declarations, claims, stability, preservation, manufacturing practices, and regulatory compliance.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is licorice root extract the same as licorice powder?

No. Licorice powder is ground plant material, while an extract is produced by transferring selected soluble constituents from the botanical material into a carrier or concentrating them into another form.

The two ingredients can have different appearances, solubility, strength, processing requirements, and recommended usage levels.

Is every licorice extract rich in glabridin?

Not necessarily. The amount and profile of glabridin and other constituents can vary according to species, plant material, growing conditions, extraction solvent, production method, and standardization.

A general licorice extract should not be described as containing a guaranteed percentage of glabridin unless testing or supplier documentation supports that statement.

Can licorice root extract be added directly to the skin?

A cosmetic raw material should ordinarily be incorporated into a properly formulated finished product according to its intended use and supplier guidance.

Do not assume that a concentrated extract is designed for direct, undiluted application.

Is licorice root extract suitable for sensitive skin?

Licorice root extract is often selected for soothing cosmetic formulations, but no ingredient is universally non-irritating. Suitability depends on the concentration, carrier, complete formula, preservation system, and individual user.

Patch-test the finished product before broad application.

Can it be added to soap?

Compatibility depends on the type of soap or cleanser.

High-pH traditional soap systems can affect the stability, color, or performance of some botanical constituents. Conduct a small trial and monitor the finished product rather than assuming that an extract will behave the same way in a neutral-pH cream and an alkaline soap.

Can it be used with niacinamide?

Licorice root extract and niacinamide are commonly considered for the same glow-focused cosmetic formulas. However, compatibility must be assessed in the complete formulation, including pH, solvent system, preservative, thickener, packaging, and concentration of each ingredient.

Will licorice root extract guarantee visible results?

No cosmetic raw material can guarantee identical results for every user.

The appearance of the skin is influenced by the complete formulation, ingredient concentration, product stability, frequency of use, sun exposure, skincare routine, and individual skin characteristics.

Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is also important in routines intended to maintain a more even-looking and radiant appearance.

Shop Licorice Root Extract for Cosmetic Formulation

Agape Sale LLC supplies Licorice Root Extract (PG) for DIY formulators, skincare brands, manufacturers, and other cosmetic product developers.

Our extract is made with propylene glycol and contains no added water or glycerin. It can be considered for properly designed face, body, and personal-care formulations according to the product’s recommended directions.

Ready to formulate with licorice root extract? Shop Agape Sale Licorice Root Extract (PG) and explore our selection of botanical extracts, cosmetic ingredients, oils, butters, powders, actives, and formulation supplies.

For external cosmetic use only. This ingredient is not a drug and is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.