How to Add Botanical Extracts to Cosmetic Formulations
Agape Sale LLC
Botanical extracts can add plant-focused value to creams, lotions, serums, cleansers, gels, and other skincare products. Because extracts are available in different carriers and concentrations, they must be added according to the supplier’s instructions and the needs of the complete formula.
This guide gives a simple overview of the basic steps.
1. Identify the Extract Carrier
Check whether the extract is carried in:
- Propylene glycol
- Glycerin
- Water
- Oil
- Alcohol
- Powder form
The carrier helps determine where the extract belongs in the formula.
Water-, glycerin-, and propylene glycol-based extracts are generally used in compatible water-containing products. Oil-based extracts are used in oil phases or anhydrous products. Powders may require dissolving or dispersing before use.
2. Calculate the Required Amount
Always use the supplier’s recommended usage range.
To calculate the amount:
Total batch weight × usage percentage ÷ 100
Example:
For a 500-gram batch using an extract at 2%:
500 × 2 ÷ 100 = 10 grams
The extract should be included within the total batch weight.
3. Keep the Formula at 100%
Do not add the extract on top of a formula that already totals 100%.
For example:
- Original water: 75%
- Botanical extract: 2%
- Adjusted water: 73%
The extract replaces part of the formula rather than increasing the total to 102%.
Do not reduce emulsifiers, preservatives, or thickeners unless the formula has been properly recalculated.
4. Choose the Correct Formulation Phase
A cosmetic formula may contain:
- Water phase
- Oil phase
- Cool-down phase
Many liquid botanical extracts are added during the cool-down phase to reduce unnecessary heat exposure. However, the correct phase depends on the extract’s carrier, solubility, heat stability, and supplier instructions.
Oil-based extracts may belong in the oil phase. Powders may require pre-dispersion before being added.
5. Add the Extract Correctly
Once the formula reaches the appropriate processing temperature:
- Weigh the extract accurately.
- Add it gradually while mixing.
- Mix until evenly distributed.
- Avoid introducing excessive air or foam.
- Observe the formula for thinning, thickening, cloudiness, or separation.
6. Check the Final pH
Botanical extracts may change the pH of the finished product.
After the extract has been fully incorporated:
- Allow the formula to become uniform.
- Measure the pH with a calibrated pH meter.
- Confirm that the pH is suitable for the preservative system and other ingredients.
- Adjust only when necessary and according to the formula requirements.
7. Review the Preservation System
Adding an extract changes the composition of the formula and may affect preservation.
A botanical extract does not automatically preserve a water-containing product. The finished formula still requires an appropriate preservation system.
Consider:
- Final pH
- Extract carrier
- Preservative usage range
- Packaging
- Manufacturing hygiene
- Intended storage and consumer use
Commercial products should be properly tested rather than assumed to be preserved.
8. Test Compatibility and Stability
Begin with a small test batch before producing a large quantity.
Monitor the product for:
- Separation
- Color changes
- Odor changes
- pH drift
- Unexpected thinning or thickening
- Sediment
- Crystallization
- Packaging problems
A formula that looks stable immediately after mixing may still change over time.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using the same percentage for every extract
- Ignoring the extract carrier
- Adding the extract at excessive heat
- Adding it after the formula already totals 100%
- Using a glycol extract in an oil-only product
- Skipping the final pH check
- Assuming botanical means self-preserving
- Producing a large batch without testing
Explore Agape Sale Botanical Extracts
Agape Sale LLC offers propylene glycol botanical extracts for formulators, product developers, small cosmetic brands, and growing beauty businesses.
Our PG extracts are prepared:
- Without added water
- Without glycerin
- For external cosmetic formulation
- In multiple sizes for testing and production
For information about individual ingredients such as licorice, gotu kola, green tea, turmeric, and bakuchi, visit our:
Ingredient Guides
Frequently Asked Questions
When should botanical extracts be added?
Many liquid extracts are added during the cool-down phase, but the correct phase depends on the carrier, heat stability, and supplier instructions.
How much botanical extract should I use?
Use the recommended range provided for the exact extract. There is no universal percentage for every botanical ingredient.
Can a glycol extract be used in body oil?
A glycol-based extract may not blend evenly with an oil-only product. Use an oil-compatible extract or a properly designed emulsified system.
Do botanical extracts preserve a finished product?
No. The finished water-containing formula still requires an appropriate preservation system.
Final Thoughts
Identify the extract carrier, calculate the correct amount, keep the formula at 100%, choose the proper phase, check the final pH, and test the finished product before producing a larger batch.
Formulation Disclaimer
The information in this article is provided for general cosmetic-formulation education only and is not a complete formula, safety assessment, or guarantee of product performance. Ingredient specifications and recommended usage may vary by supplier.
Always review the documentation for each ingredient and conduct your own small-batch, pH, stability, preservation, and packaging-compatibility testing before producing or selling a finished product. The formulator is responsible for the safety, suitability, labeling, regulatory compliance, and performance of the finished formulation.
For external cosmetic formulation only. This information is not medical, legal, or regulatory advice.
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